Belwalk

Caravanserai · 16th century

Kuršumli An

The largest surviving caravanserai, a 16th-century court of two-storey arcades under small lead-roofed domes.

Kuršumli An
Photo: Македонец, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Stories

These are the stories you can open in the 3D view, each at its own numbered point on the model.

Kuršumli An

Kuršumli An is the largest of the three caravanserais that survive in the Old Bazaar. Merchants and their animals stayed here, round a closed courtyard, almost square, about 45 by 42 metres.

It dates from the 16th century. The Macedonian Wikipedia names its founder as Mula Musledin Hodža, a court scholar of Sultan Selim II, around 1550, possibly on older foundations.

  • Built: 16th century (about 1550, by one account)
  • Size: about 45 × 42 m
  • Largest surviving han in the bazaar
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The “lead” inn

The name means the lead-covered inn. The roof is made of rows of small, slightly rounded pyramidal domes, once covered in lead.

Tall chimneys rise between them. From the street, the outer walls of stone and brick are almost blank: the han turned its back to the town and opened onto its court.

  • Name: “covered in lead”
  • Roof: small pyramidal domes
  • Tall chimneys over the rooms
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Two storeys of arcades

Round the court run two storeys of arcades. Below, square stone piers carry round arches; above, slimmer stone supports carry a second row.

Look at the arches: their wedge-shaped stones, the voussoirs, alternate between pale stone and red brick. A stone cornice runs between the two floors.

  • Ground floor: square stone piers
  • Arches: stone and brick voussoirs
  • Plan: open court, two storeys
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Stables below, rooms above

The ground floor held storerooms for goods and stables, by one account for a hundred horses.

Travellers slept upstairs, in rooms that open off the gallery round the court. Of the three hans that survive in the bazaar, this is the largest; the others are Suli An and Kapan An.

  • Ground floor: stores and stables
  • Stables: for 100 horses (en.wikipedia)
  • Upper floor: guest rooms
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Inn, prison, inn again

The main entrance is on the south side, under a domed porch.

Kuršumli An worked as a han until 1787 and then became a prison. Macedonian revolutionaries were held here after the Vinica affair of 1897. From 1904 to 1914 it was a han once more.

  • Han until 1787, then a prison
  • Prisoners after the Vinica affair, 1897
  • Han again 1904–1914
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The court

In the middle of the court stands an octagonal stone fountain basin, among grass, a stone-paved path and a tall conifer.

The han stands in the grounds of the Museum of Macedonia and has served as a summer stage for concerts. The 1963 earthquake destroyed the mosque that was attached to it and most of its bath house.

  • Fountain: octagonal stone basin
  • In the grounds of the Museum of Macedonia
  • 1963: attached mosque destroyed
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A lapidarium

The galleries have been used as the lapidarium of the Museum of Macedonia: a collection of carved stones, such as tombstones, column drums and capitals.

Opening has been irregular. OpenStreetMap, checked in July 2026, marks the museum use as disused, so check before you plan a visit inside.

  • Lapidarium of the Museum of Macedonia
  • Access: check before visiting
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Timeline

  1. c. 1550Built, by one account for Mula Musledin Hodža.
  2. 1787No longer a han; it becomes a prison.
  3. 1897Revolutionaries held here after the Vinica affair.
  4. 1904–1914A han again.
  5. 1963The earthquake destroys the attached mosque and most of the bath house.

Take a break nearby

  • Kuršumli An restaurant
    Restaurant · About 1 min on foot (60 m)
    • Kebapi (10 pcs) 320 MKD
    • Tavče gravče 250 MKD
    • Shopska salad 200 MKD
  • Kairo
    Café · About 2 min on foot (130 m)
    • Turkish coffee 70 MKD
    • Tea 60 MKD
    • Espresso 70 MKD
  • Mon Frère
    Café · About 2 min on foot (150 m)
    • Espresso 80 MKD
    • Macchiato 90 MKD
    • Turkish coffee 70 MKD
  • Old Balkan
    Restaurant · About 4 min on foot (240 m)
    • Tavče gravče 260 MKD
    • Kebapi (10 pcs) 330 MKD
    • Shopska salad 200 MKD

Typical prices are our estimates for orientation, not menu prices. Check opening hours on the spot.

Nearby places

Sources

See it in 3D

Walk around the model, switch between day and night, and hear each story read aloud in English, Macedonian or Turkish.

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