Belwalk

Ottoman trading quarter · since the 15th c.

Old Bazaar

The maze of craft lanes north of the Dragor that once held over 2,000 shops; its east end has the fresh-food market.

Old Bazaar
Photo: Sentimentalna, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Stories

These are the stories you can open in the 3D view, each at its own numbered point on the model.

Stara Čaršija, the Old Bazaar

This is Stara Čaršija, the Old Bazaar of Bitola, on the north bank of the Dragor. It has been the town's trading quarter since the 15th century: a knot of narrow cobbled lanes lined with low shops, many with a room or a store above. The whole bazaar is listed as cultural heritage, and several houses, mosques and baths inside it are listed one by one.

  • Trading quarter since the 15th century
  • Protected as a whole
  • North bank of the Dragor
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900 shops, or 2,000?

How big was the bazaar at its height? Sources disagree. The traveller Evliya Çelebi counted about 900 shops in the 17th century. For the mid-19th century, English Wikipedia gives more than 2,000 shops and about 140 crafts, while Macedonian Wikipedia gives over 900 shops with more than 140 crafts. At that time Bitola is described as the third city of Ottoman Europe, after Istanbul and Thessaloniki.

  • 17th c.: ~900 shops (Evliya Çelebi)
  • Mid-19th c.: 2,000+ or 900+ shops
  • ~140 crafts
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A lane for every craft

Craftsmen worked side by side here: tinsmiths, tailors, cobblers and basket makers, and photos on Wikimedia Commons still show baskets piled outside shops on Dunav street. The painted boards in this scene use old Macedonian trade names, such as kazandžija for the coppersmith, tenekedžija for the tinsmith, čevlar for the cobbler, terzija for the tailor and kujundžija for the goldsmith.

  • Tinsmiths, tailors, cobblers, basket makers
  • Signs: old Macedonian trade names
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Iron shutters

The bazaar is known for its iron shop shutters. In the morning they go up, and goods spill out onto the cobbles: crates of fruit, copper pots, hanging clothes. In the evening they come down again and the lanes grow quiet. Use the closing-time switch to watch the shutters close. In this model the wooden flaps on some older fronts fold shut as well.

  • Famous for iron shutters
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Thirty markets

At its peak the čaršija had about thirty specialised markets, each named after what was sold there. Among them were the Ovči pazar for sheep, the Drven pazar for wood, the Žiten pazar for grain, the At pazar for horses and the Pekmez pazar for grape molasses. Today the fresh-food market lies at the eastern end of the bazaar.

  • ~30 markets at the peak
  • Sheep, wood, grain, horses, pekmez
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Marble fountains

In 2009 the municipality and the Bitola Museum began a programme to renovate the bazaar, expected to take about ten years. As part of it, the museum restored two marble fountains. This scene places two marble wall fountains where OpenStreetMap marks drinking water in this part of the bazaar. Their shape here is a simplified reconstruction, not a survey.

  • Renovation programme: from 2009
  • Two marble fountains restored
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Minarets above the roofs

Looking west, the tall minaret belongs to the Isak Čelebi Mosque of 1506, at the western end of the bazaar. It is the largest mosque in Bitola, and its minaret is about 50 m high. Smaller mosques stand inside the bazaar too, such as the Hadži Mahmud Bey Mosque to the east, whose minaret is partly demolished.

  • Isak Čelebi Mosque: 1506
  • Minaret: ~50 m
  • Hadži Mahmud Bey: minaret partly demolished
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Ups and downs

Trade here fell sharply during the Austro-Ottoman war of the 1680s. Early in the 19th century Bitola became a major trading town again, but new foreign trade soon moved to newer streets south of the bazaar. Today many shops stand closed, yet craftsmen, cafés and small boutiques still share the old lanes.

  • Decline: 1680s war
  • Revival: early 19th century
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Timeline

  1. 15th c.The bazaar north of the Dragor becomes the town's trading centre.
  2. 1591A Venetian merchant reports a bezistan and a caravanserai.
  3. 17th c.Evliya Çelebi counts about 900 shops.
  4. 1680sWar with Austria; trade falls sharply.
  5. Mid-1800s2,000+ shops (or 900+) and about 140 crafts.
  6. 1912Ottoman rule in Bitola ends.
  7. 2009Municipality and museum start a renovation programme.

Take a break nearby

  • Akvamarni (jeweller)
    Shop · About 1 min on foot (70 m)
  • Zlatara (goldsmith)
    Shop · About 1 min on foot (80 m)
  • Kire Bakery
    Bakery · About 1 min on foot (80 m)
    • Burek, portion 80 MKD
    • Burek with yogurt 120 MKD
    • Savoury pastry (kifla/đevrek) 40 MKD
  • Bar Čaršija
    Café · About 2 min on foot (100 m)
    • Espresso 70 MKD
    • Macchiato 80 MKD
    • Local beer 0.5 l 120 MKD

Typical prices are our estimates for orientation, not menu prices. Check opening hours on the spot.

Nearby places

Sources

See it in 3D

Walk around the model, switch between day and night, and hear each story read aloud in English, Macedonian or Turkish.

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